How to QUANTIFY QUALITY to prospective customers

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I do the same thing six months later. That way we both know that at the end of 12 months it’s working properly and is still almost in like-new condition.
I could skip this step and just wait for things to break. It would actually lower your initial invest by $200 to do that. But why would either one of us want to do that when you’re spending this kind of money?

After the first year, I even give you a discount the keep having me come out to inspect and maintain your equipment.

Outside disconnect. There’s nothing wrong with your existing outside disconnect switch and wiring to the unit at this time. I could re-use what’s already there is you want me to lower your initial investment by $60. However, I know your existing outside disconnect switch and wiring to the unit won’t last 16 years. That means I also know I’ll be back at some point to replace it, at great inconvenience to you, and for a significantly higher cost. By replacing it now, I’m saving you hundreds of dollars.

Thermostat. Like your outside disconnect, there is nothing wrong with your existing thermostat. I could re-use it and knock $40 off the cost of your installation. However, I know it won’t last 16 years. That means I also know I’ll be back at some point to replace it, at great inconvenience to you, and for a significantly higher cost. By replacing it now, I’m saving you hundreds of dollars.

Elevate the equipment. I don’t set the outdoor unit directly on the pad, nor do I set the indoor unit directly on the concrete floor of your basement.
Rust is one of the most common reasons people replace equipment that is still running, but is falling apart on them.

The outdoor unit accumulates water and absolutely must drain properly to prevent rust. The manufacturers go to great lengths to ensure proper drainage, then the installers set them directly on the pad. The drains get clogged with debris on the first rain and the unit retains water and begins to rust.

To prevent this, I either set it on vibration isolation pads or install legs on it to keep it off the pad and drain properly, thereby preventing rust and helping the unit to last and look good as long as possible. (Note: You can often get the same weather legs that you use on heat pumps as a separate item and install them air conditioners as well. They look sharp, customers love them and you’ll be the only contractor in town that does this for them.)

When anything is set directly on concrete, it begins to draw water upward toward it. Additionally, when basements flood, or there is a drain stoppage, the furnace can be permanently damaged. By keeping it a couple of inches off the floor, I am able to prevent this.

It takes a little extra time and a small investment in materials to take this step. It probably adds about $100 to the job, but this small step has the potential to save you thousands of dollars.

Mastic seal. I mastic-seal every joint I touch. (Note: I recommend you invest in diagnostic equipment to locate all duct leakage and make sealing ducts a standard part of every installation. Many people who have been willing to pay my significantly higher price to install the exact same equipment as my lower-priced competitor have told me that the duct sealing was the reason they chose me.)

Even well-made and well-sealed duct systems leak to some degree. Most duct systems lose a good 30% of their efficiency through duct leakage.

I could pretend like I don’t know your ducts leak and that I honestly believe that high quality silver tape is more than adequate, and you could spend $200 less on this installation. (That price is for properly sealing only those joints that are a part of the installation. Complete duct sealing can run ten times that amount, and be well worth the investment.) But it wouldn’t be true and it wouldn’t be the right thing to do. Why invest this much money in high-efficiency equipment, and leave the ducts leaking, just to save $200 on the initial installation?

One-piece lineset. Your refrigerant lineset is approximately 33-ft. long. How would you like it if I took a bunch of shorter lengths of copper tubing I saved from other jobs, and soldered them together to make your lineset? That’s a standard practice in this industry. If I did that, I could lower your initial investment by a good $100 or so. Of course, you’d have a higher probability of difficult-to-locate and difficult-to-repair refrigerant leaks, and running low on refrigerant will permanently damage your compressor, but you could save $100 on the installation. Why would you want to do that when you’re spending this much money?

Copper linesets come in 50-ft. rolls. That means that if I buy two brand new linesets for your installation, I’ll have two 17-ft. lengths of lineset left over at the end of your job. The only debris I leave with you at the end of the job will be those two 17-ft. lengths of copper lineset. The reason I do this for you is to ensure you that I do not solder shorter pieces together to save a few bucks up front, even though I know it could cause you serious problems down the road.

Professional installers. Your installation team will consist of one installer and a helper. My installers are professionals who specialize in residential or commercial replacement installations. They don’t do new construction work (which is an entry-level position) or run service. They are dedicated, career installers. By specializing in replacement installations, they are able to give you a tighter, neater, more efficient installation. They know how to get the old equipment out and the new equipment into your home without damaging your walls, doors, ceilings or floors.

They have clean criminal backgrounds and are drug tested prior to hiring and at random intervals, so you know your possessions are safe with my installers around.

They’re covered under my license and insurance and have had my technical training, quality control training and customer service training.